I just bought the house and there are established weeds. Asked by Betty from Tallahassee, Fl. If not, do you know a herbicide that will work? Asked by Barbara from Camilla, Georgia. Will Atrazine kill daylilies? When I spray my lawn if some atrazine spray get on my daylilies or rose bushes will it kill them or harm them in any way?
The product labels for the Atrazine products we carry do not state that they are safe for ornamentals so to be safe we would recommend avoiding spraying or allowing drift to contact anything desirable.
Asked by Marshall from Navarre, Fl. What is the best Post-emergent herbicide to use on Centipede grass? I will be applying Dimension 2EW as a pre-emergent this weekend and again about 7 weeks later. But I'd like to know what to use on my centipede to kill what's already grown in.
Asked by Bill from Ocala, Fl. For getting rid of dollar weed in my lawn? The lawn is St, Augustine grass.
Asked by Sherry from Granbury. Should Southern Ag Atrazine be applied to wet grass? Asked by Corey from Fort Lauderdale, Fl. Augustine Floratam? Asked by Jason from Douglasville, Ga. Augustine Grass be used on newly plugged St Augustine grass? Asked by Tim from North Carolina. Many plants have the name dollar weed. Can you post pictures of yours so we can tell you what you really have?
Some dollar weeds will die if you look at them wrong and others will eventually take over the land masses. Now is not the time to kill weeds. Wait until spring when they are popping.
For best results fertilize first, wait 2 weeks, then spot spray. What happened with your organic program? Whether you use organic fertilizer or synthetic should make no difference in weeds. The problem with weeds is almost always a watering problem too frequent or, secondarily, a mowing problem too low. How important is having a green kitchen? What's the worst possible thing to find in your house? Garden of weeds! My over-watering issue came when our drought in South Florida ended this year and we got slammed with long periods of rain.
My weed problem was barely noticeable before that, but as you can see from my photos, it's a big problem now. I used to have a lawn company spray my lawn with weed killer every two months, but I stopped doing that once my 3-year-old twins started playing in the grass more often, rolling around like chimps, often as naked as chimps too. But I went many months without weeds even after stopping the spraying service.
I tried Eco-Sense from Ortho, but it didn't work. I am considering trying Corn Gluten in the Spring, but I don't have much hope for it based on the what I've read. Thus, I am now willing to spray again, but I want to be able to kill the existed weeds yet know that after a few days and one watering-in, my kids can play on it again.
When you say now is not the time to kill weeds, does that mean the cold weather will eventually kill all my existing weeds, so there is no need to spray kill them? First two are suspected Dollarweed. Third is suspected crabgrass. Fourth is stringy weed. Penoxsulam is a fairly new broad spectrum, broad leaf weed killer approved for St Augustine lawns. It should be effective on the Dollarweed but I don't know about the Crabgrass or Sedge. I have not used this product but have purchased some for next Spring upon the advice of a friend.
He lives in Orlando and reports good results. Here is a link that might be useful: Penoxsulam. The dollar weed is the one you have worry about first. There are three kinds of plants that grow in lawns. One is classified as grass or your target turf grass these include common lawn grasses like turf type fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, St Augustine, hybrid bermuda, centipede, zoysia.
Another is broadleaf weeds clover, dichondra, pennywort, spurge, horse herb, black medic, creeping charlie, and others. The third category is grassy weeds which do not tame well sedges nutgrass and , Johnson grass, crabgrass, common bermuda, barnyard grass, annual bluegrass, goose grass, and others.
The broadleaf class of weeds are the bane of St Augustine lawns because they will easily shade out new growth. The St Aug will thin out fast and disappear in just a few months. With grassy weeds, the coarse blades of the St Aug usually shade them out.
Fortunately there are different kinds of chemicals which kill the different kinds of plants. Broadleaf weeds are killed by the ,d chemicals in Weed-B-Gone. Unfortunately St Aug is sensitive to ,d also.
Most plants are killed with atrazine but St Aug is not. I have not heard of penoxsulam, but then I don't pay much attention to herbicides. There is also Grass-B-Gone and Sedgehammer for the other weeds. Again, unfortunately, lawn grasses are killed by the Grass-B-gone product.
Weed problems in a lawn indicate that the turf has been weakened by improper management practices or damage from pests. Proper management practices can eliminate many weed problems. If weeds are a persistent problem, herbicides labeled specifically for St. Augustinegrass should be used. If an herbicide is needed, preemergence herbicides i.
Timing is critical for successful control. Note: Preemergence herbicides will not control weeds that are actively growing. Postemergence herbicides e. The local county Extension office can assist with positive weed identification and provide the latest recommendations.
These herbicides can damage landscape plants whose roots may extend far under the lawn. These materials should only be used when a lawn has a uniform weed population. Carefully read the label before use and follow all label directions. Augustine grass is the chinch bug Figure 9. Chinch bugs are foliar-feeding insects that suck plant juices through a needle like beak, causing yellowish to brownish patches in turf Figure Injured areas are usually first noticed as the weather begins to warm in areas along sidewalks, adjacent to buildings, and in other water-stressed areas where the grass is in full sun.
Check for chinch bugs by removing the ends of a coffee can, inserting one end into the soil at the margin of suspected damaged areas, and filling it with water. Chinch bugs will float to the water surface within 5 minutes. In areas where chinch bugs are a serious problem, a single, thorough insecticide treatment may offer only temporary control. Therefore, repeat applications may be required.
Some populations of this insect have become resistant to synthetic pyrethroid insecticides. Other insect pests, including webworms, armyworms, grass loopers, and mole crickets, can damage St.
Mole crickets damage turfgrass areas primarily by creating tunnels or soft mounds while searching for food. Additional damage may result from small animals digging through the soil profile in search of the mole crickets as food.
Mole crickets will surface in several minutes. White grubs are another pest of St. These can be found by lifting the grass to a depth of about 2 inches. Grubs can be seen feeding on the roots at this level. Large brown patch Figure 11 and gray leaf spot Figure 12 are two major disease problems of St.
Large brown patch occurs in warm, humid weather and is encouraged by excessive nitrogen. It is generally most noticeable during the spring and fall months. Gray leaf spot occurs during the summer rainy season and is primarily a problem on new growth. Both diseases can be controlled with fungicides.
Other St. Augustine grass disease problems originate in the root system. Take-all root rot Gaeumannomyces graminis var. When symptoms are noticeable above ground, the disease is usually in an advanced stage. Following proper cultural practices is the best defense against this disease.
Several types of nematodes infest St. Augustine grass lawns. Population peaks of nematodes typically occur in late April to early May and again in late August to early September. Damage symptoms Figure 13 include thin stand density, less vigorous growth, a weakened root system, slow recovery following rain or irrigation application, and certain weeds such as prostrate spurge and Florida pusley. Soil nematode levels can only be positively identified through laboratory procedures.
The local county Extension office can provide information on submitting soil samples to the University of Florida Nematode Assay Laboratory. There are currently no effective nematode controls for use in the home lawn.
Cultural controls include encouraging deep turfgrass rooting by raising the mowing height, irrigating less frequently but more deeply, and providing ample soil potassium. Other factors can also decrease the quality of a lawn. Excessive shade, compacted soils, over- or under watering, improper mowing, traffic, and high or low pH can all cause a lawn to perform poorly.
It is important to recognize what the source of the problem is and to correct it if possible. Thatch is the layer of under composed leaf blades, stolons, roots, and crowns intermingled with soil Figure Leaving mowing clippings on the lawn does not cause thatch because clippings are readily broken down by microbes in the soil.
Thatch development is greatest in grass that is over fertilized or over watered. An excessive thatch layer reduces water penetration and can bind up fertilizer or pesticides. In severe cases, roots may be seen actually growing above ground and rooting into the thatch layer. This is a very unhealthy condition and leaves the lawn vulnerable to many stresses. Verticutting uses vertical blades that slice through the thatch and slightly into the soil, resulting in much of the dead material being removed from the top of the lawn.
A 3-inch spacing between the dethatching blades is best for St. Caution: Vertical mowing may result in damaged turf that requires a period of recuperation. Do not attempt vertical mowing unless the grass is actively growing. Verticut should be done in an east to west or north to south pattern, but not in all four directions.
Debris should be removed by raking, sweeping, or vacuuming, followed by a conventional mowing to improve turf appearance and immediate irrigation to prevent root zone dehydration. One week after vertical mowing, fertilizer should be applied at the rate of 1 pound of nitrogen per square feet to encourage recovery.
This material must be watered into the soil immediately following application to prevent plant burn. If topdressing, be sure to use soil that is free of weed seeds and nematodes and be careful not to exceed recommended topdressing rates, as this encourages large brown patch disease.
Large, bare areas can be replanted by broadcasting sprigs 1 bushel per square feet , by planting 2-inch plugs every 12 inches, or by sodding. These areas should be kept continuously moist with light, frequent irrigations several times daily until runners develop or sod is well rooted. South Florida includes the remaining southern portion of the state. Original publication date May Revised April Cisar, professor, turfgrass specialist, Ft. Lauderdale, FL ; and J. The Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences IFAS is an Equal Opportunity Institution authorized to provide research, educational information and other services only to individuals and institutions that function with non-discrimination with respect to race, creed, color, religion, age, disability, sex, sexual orientation, marital status, national origin, political opinions or affiliations.
For more information on obtaining other extension publications, contact your county Cooperative Extension service. The greater spread of the blades of grass will help prevent weed seeds from taking root. It will also help the plant conserve energy against winter stresses. Pre-emergent herbicides such as atrazine and benefin are most effective when combating weeds in a St. Augustine lawn. Apply these herbicides as early in spring as possible to prevent weed seeds from germinating.
Use an herbicide like 2,4-D or dicamba to treat emerged weeds. Samantha Volz has been involved in journalistic and informative writing for over eight years. She holds a bachelor's degree in English literature from Lycoming College, Williamsport, Pennsylvania, with a minor in European history.
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